People love to get fast glass and full frame sensors because the bokeh is so good.
And they think you can’t get bokeh from small sensor cameras. But in this video I show you that you can!
First let me define bokeh for you
Bokeh is the Japanese word for blur. It’s that simple.
But, in our photo culture when we speak of bokeh, we usually mean those lovely blobs of soft light in the background of our images that look like this.
To get good bokeh you need to know the three things that control depth of field.
- Focal length
- Proximity to your subject
The aperture we all know about
The larger the f-stop the less depth of field – usually.
Focal length is also important
The longer the focal length the less depth of field. It’s really hard to get bokeh with wide angle lenses.
Proximity is something people forget
The closer you are to your foreground subject, the less depth of field you’ll get in the background.
So put all three of these things together (or even 2 out of 3) and you’ll get some great bokeh shots.
Lighting considerations for best results
Keep in mind that to get these blobs of soft light in the background, you’ll need some light in the background too.
Night shots work great. You can have a closeup portrait with streetlights in the background. Christmas lights work too.
It can be natural light outdoors, or indoor light. Keep in mind that it’s sometimes hard to get bokeh in the super bright outdoors. So you might need an ND filter to help with that.
In this video tutorial, I shoot video and stills with my Lumix GH3 camera, and I show you changes to the three depth of field properties to demonstrate how bokeh is made.
Watch the video to find out how you can get bokeh from APS C sensors, the lenses that you find on the entry level dSLR cameras, and also mirrorless cameras.
Here are some stills from the video: